A Matter of Taste: Serving Up Paul Liebrandt | Review

Food is a tough industry to make a name in, but as a chef in Atlas restaurant in New York City, at the age of 24, Paul Liebrandt became the youngest chef ever given a three star rating by The New York Times. The chef was a young phenom, but before heading his two Michelin star restaurant, Corton, he had to pay some serious dues in a New York economy plagued by the ghosts of 9/11. Director Sally Rowe meticulously follows Liebrandt’s up and down career over the course of nearly a decade in the new HBO doc, A Matter of Taste: Serving Up Paul Liebrandt.

After spending his teens cooking in London and Paris with top chefs like Marco Pierre White, Richard Neat, and Pierre Gagnaire, Liebrandt moved to the Big Apple with a dream to make a name for himself in the dicey New York culinary scene. He found a home at Atlas restaurant where he received a three star rating from food critic William Grimes, but shortly after he left the restaurant, and became the director of Papillon. There he continued to hone his skill, and experiment with bizarre flavour combinations. The restaurant received two stars from The New York Times, but a hurting economy forced the owners to convert the menu to more casual, affordable fare to attract more customers. As a chef with considerable talent, and a burning passion to be unleash creativity in the kitchen, Liebrandt was miserable flipping burgers, and frying frites. He decided to leave in hopes of finding something worth his time, but years past as he worked for a number of consulting firms until finally he was offered head chef and co-owner of Corton, a new restaurant in Tribeca fronted by restaurateur Drew Nieporent.

Rowe quietly observes Liebrandt’s long journey as he himself divulges the details of his sticky situation, and subsequent success. As a man known for his deconstructive cuisine, and not so subtle ego, Liebrandt had trouble finding work after leaving Papillon, despite being a stirring cultural figure, even appearing in Vogue during his period of unemployment. Rowe basically skips over these three years, and abbreviates them to a one line descriptor card and one lone scene, despite the obvious interest in what he might have been doing in these years. Most of the film focuses its attention on the experience that surrounds being criticized by the illusive The New York Times writer, Frank Bruni. Much time is spent on the anxiety caused by, and the preparation involved in Bruni’s arrival, but his appraisal is worth the trouble, coming off similar to Peter O’Toole’s cathartic critique in Ratatouille. Liebrandt’s endless time in the kitchen showcases his his head-strong work ethic, and considerable talents as a chef, though he is often cast in an unflattering light. He often has moments of foul mouthed grandstanding when his extremely high standards are not met by his belittled staff. The result of these standards are gorgeously colored delicacies which are photographed exquisitely, and are guaranteed to leave your mouth watering at the conclusion of the film.

A Matter of Taste stays away from the creative process of crafting high end food that was highlighted in El Bulli, another decent culinary doc released this year, and instead features a young and skilled craftsman adrift in a market full of French technicians. Liebrandt’s tale is far from over, but this portion of it is an interesting, though sometimes shallow feeling look at the top tier restaurant business.

Airs on HBO, June, 13th 2011.

Rating 2.5 stars